There is no danger. First, there is actually very little liquid in the heat pipe. And, it is under very low pressure. So, while the liquid might freeze, it will not damage the heat pipe. Soon after powering the camera, the liquid will thaw.

Yes it will. You can connect through the remote port on the camera either with a "Remote" cable or Bluetooth dongle. You can also use an RCU connected via the Break-out-Box.

If you connect using the remote port on the camera then you will also have to connect to one of the HD-SDI outputs of the camera to see video on the RCU.

Connecting through the Break-out-Box provides NTSC or PAL video to the RCU.

Both the Phantom v1210 and v1610 are equipped standard with the unique CineMag interface. This interface is able to transfer images from the camera’s high-speed memory to non-volatile, flash memory at about 1Gpx/sec. A full resolution frame is 1 Mpx, so you can save about 1000 frames each second to a CineMag. Or, another way to state this is you can save  about 1.5GB/sec to non-volatile mass-storage. A v1610, equipped with maximum memory of 96GB, can save its full memory buffer to a CineMag in about a minute.

Once a shot is saved to the CineMag it is safely stored and available for later retrieval. This means you immediately can use the camera for another shot.

Images stored on a CineMag are available for later retrieval using the Phantom Camera Control (PCC) software with the CineMag mounted on either the camera or the offline docking station known as a CineStation.

The camera and the CineStation each have a 10Gb Ethernet port for file retrieval at the fastest possible speeds.

The v1210 and v1610 are not compatible with 1^st generation CineMags (those in the larger housing, often called CineMag I.) If your CineMag is in the slim housing, then it is compatible.

Download times over Ethernet are highly dependent upon your computer and disk configuration and performance. Over Gb Ethernet, we typically see about 60 MB/s to a very high performance desktop PC. (Dell Precision, T3500, quad-core Xeon processor at 2.8GHz, 4GB RAM, to a 8-disk RAID array using SSD drives, Windows 7 Professional.) With 10Gb Ethernet from CineStation, we typically see about 400MB/s to this configuration.  Characterization of download speeds and times from the v1610 and v1210 are under evaluation, but should be similar to the CineStation results. Your results will vary.

The GPS port on the Phantom v1210 and v1610 can be used to provide date, time and location information from the GPS satellite network. Vision Research sells a compatible GPS receiver (VRI-GPS-18X-LVC-5M). With the GPS receiver connected to the camera, and assuming it has a valid satellite fix, GPS timing can be used similarly to IRIG timing. You can synchronize the camera’s internal clock to the GPS, timestamp frames with GPS timing accuracy, and even save the camera’s latitude and longitude with any cine file (location error is < 3 meters after a satellite fix.)

The primary input is where you plug the 220W A/C power supply provided with the camera. This is your primary source of power for the camera. You can optionally connect a backup source of power—often a battery—to the backup battery power input. If the camera power switch is set to AUTO, and if there is a loss of power on the primary input, even momentarily, the backup power will immediately take over - providing uninterrupted power to the camera. This is important to protect any images stored in the camera’s high-speed memory from accidental loss.

Connecting power to the battery backup port will not turn on the camera. (See FAQ about the AUTO/ON/OFF switch.) There is no drain from the connected battery unless a loss of primary power causes the power input to switch to the battery backup.

The battery backup port will not charge a connected battery.

In case of primary power loss, the backup battery port will not only protect images saved in memory, but can provide sufficient power to power all camera operations until the input voltage drops below the minimum required, ~ 18VDC.

If primary power is restored, that again becomes the power source for the camera and the battery port reverts to a backup mode.

[This answer was modified on 23 August 2011]

Prior to the introduction of the Phantom v1210 and v1610, Phantom cameras did not have a physical power switch. Instead, the camera powered up any time an appropriate DC voltage appeared on the power input to the camera. This was done so that cameras can be powered up (booted) remotely by providing primary power and did not require physical access to the camera.

However, there is a physical power switch on the v1210 and v1610. It has three positions: AUTO, ON, and OFF.

When the switch is set to AUTO, providing power to the Primary DC Input will power up (boot) the camera and it will be ready for use. In AUTO, providing power to the Battery Backup power input of an unpowered camera WILL NOT power up the camera. However, if there is a loss of primary power, then the Battery Backup power will be used to maintain camera operation and protect any stored data.

When the switch is in the OFF position, the camera is off. Providing power to the Primary DC Power input or the Battery Backup input will not cause the camera to power-up.

When the switch is moved to the ON position, the camera will power-up immediately provided there is power connected to the Primary DC Power port OR the Battery Backup port on the camera

There are several use-cases this scheme enables:

1. Battery backup for mission critical tests: Set the camera to AUTO. Power through the Primary input and provide local battery backup power to the Battery Backup input. If primary power is lost, camera operation will continue and data is protected by the battery backup.
2. Remote power up: You can turn the camera on by providing power to the Primary DC Power input when the camera is in AUTO or ON.
3. Remote power cycle: If the camera will need to have power cycled remotely, set the switch to AUTO and do not use a battery for battery backup.
4. Battery operation: Connect a battery to the Battery Backup port. Set the switch to ON.

No, you must use the 220 W power supply shipped with the camera. It is part number: VRI-PWR-SUPPLY-220W-FIS. Spares and replacement power supplies are available from Vision Research.

There is a 19-pin Amphenol connector on the back of the camera that is called the Capture Connector. The connector has the following available signals:

• Event input (an external signal can “mark” one or more frames with an event marker making it easy to later find and view specific frames)
• Trigger input (provides a hardware trigger to the camera)
• Strobe output (is a low during the frame exposure time)
• Ready output (is high when the camera is capturing pretrigger frames)
• IRIG-In (external sync and time stamping from a modulated or unmodulated IRIG source)
• IRIG-Out (provides an umodulated IRIG source that contains timing information from the camera)
• Video Out (a composite video signal, either NTSC or PAL)
• Serial Port input (for serial protocol control of camera)
• Power Out (24VDC, used to power the Break-out-Box)
• A-Sync output (optionally, signal goes low when a trigger event is detected by the Image-Based Auto-Trigger feature allowing for multiple cameras to be synchronized to an event trigger)
• Pre-trigger/Memgate input (mode is set in software; if Memgate is low, acquired frames are discarded rather than saved to camera memory; Pre-trigger signal “arms” the camera and starts the acquisition of pretrigger frames)
• Genlock input (locks the camera’s video system to an external source)

Detailed information about these signals is available using the PCC application’s Help feature.

All v1210 and v1610 cameras ship with a standard Capture Cable that connects to the Capture Connector and provides access to:

• Ready
• Strobe
• A-Sync
• Pre-trigger/Memgate
• Video

All other signals are accessible by using a Phantom Break-out-Box. See the related FAQ.

Yes, the Break-out-Box works with these cameras.

Signals available on the Break-out-Box include (see FAQ on the Capture Connector for more details):

• IRIG-In
• IRIG-Out
• Video
• Trigger
• Event
• Strobe
• A-Sync
• Pre-Trigger / Memgate
• Ready
• Genlock

In addition, the Break-out-Box provides a Remote connector for use with the Phantom Remote Control Unit (RCU) and optional Bluetooth connectivity to the RCU.

Note: you cannot power the camera from the Break-out-Box.

Yes.

Yes. You need to order the optional Canon EOS lens mount and use it with one of the tested and supported lenses (see FAQ elsewhere). The part number is: VRI-MNT-EOS-VSERIES.

No. We've been able to achieve these rates of speed without the use of such technology.

To minimize noise and maximize image quality on any digital high-speed camera, it is important to control the sensor temperature. By keeping the sensor at a fixed temperature, you will get better, more repeatable images. For many years, Vision Research has used thermo-electric (TE) coolers based on the Peltier effect to control sensor temperature. The sensor die is attached to the TE cooler and by monitoring sensor temperature, the camera can supply more or less power to the TE cooler to adjust the temperature.

The TE cooler is typically bonded to a heat sink cooled by an active fan-based cooling system.

This technology is used on the v1210 and v1610. However, these cameras run so fast, that additional cooling technology is employed. On these cameras the sensor die is attached to the TE cooler, which in turn is bonded to a copper heat sink which has heat pipes attached. The heat pipes carry excess heat away from the sensor area toward the sides of the camera where heat is removed using dual fans.

The heat pipe is a copper tube that is filled with a liquid under low pressure.  One end of the heat pipe is bonded to the source of heat, in this case the copper heat sink. The other side is bonded to a heat sink which is fan cooled. Liquid in the heat pipe moves toward the source of heat through capillary action. When it gets to the hot side of the pipe, it will turn to vapor and circulate back to the cool side where it gives up heat and turns back into liquid. The process then repeats.

We do not manufacturer such equipment, however, there are several manufacturer's of underwater housings for all types of camera equipment.

Corel Sea TV are making some custom enclosures for our Phantom v640 and Phantom HD GOLD cameras.

Prevco is a subsea engineering consultancy and manufacturer specializing in submersible pressure vessels, instrumentation housings, junction boxes, vent plugs, pressure relief valves and other accessories to meet all your underwater equipment needs for the Phantom line of digital high speed video cameras.

If you supply underwater housings or know of another supplier, please let us know so we can add to this list.

We test our cameras' light sensitivity to an industry standard: ISO 12232. We use the SAT method which we think is the best method for determining a sensor's sensitivity. The SAT method does not use gain to boost sensitivity. When using gain to increase sensitivity, you also boost the noise level. A gain adjustment to boost sensitivity is available on all Phantom cameras using image processing tools, if increased noise can be tolerated.

We recommend you blow off the camera using forced or compressed air and a damp cloth. For cleaning the Phantom CineMag’s contacts please use a cotton-swab and electrical contact cleaner (or alcohol safe for electronics). Be very gentle.  For cleaning sensors we recommend using a brush-based cleaning solution or forced air (do not blow on the sensor or use canned air).

We offer a sensor cleaning kit in our online store.

Sensor cleaning is a hot topic for digital camera users - Phantom and otherwise - and there are definite techniques on tackling it. Depending on your lighting situation, a tiny speck of dust on your sensor can lead to a big ugly spot on your images, which is a shame because it is usually avoidable. The longer the lens and smaller the aperture, the more pronounced the spots will appear on your image.

The No.1 rule is that if the dust can be removed without using a solvent, you will save yourself a lot of headaches in getting rid of it! Use the Sensor Sweep brush, (link below), as it attracts the particles to the bristles. Be sure to follow the directions. You must clean the brush by blowing air on it and sweeping it across a vellum-like surface to charge the bristles before each sweep on the sensor glass. You can also use the brush to clean the area around the sensor as dust can settle there and then get attracted back onto the sensor glass. Make sure to always blow the bristles free of dust before storing it within its container.

Compressed air is OK as a quick solution, but always test the spray first away from the sensor to make sure none of the fluid comes out. Use short bursts and hold the can upright. A better solution would be to use a blower that recycles air to force the dust off of and from around the sensor.

If there is a smudge or dust that won't go away, try a micro fiber lens cleaning cloth to gently wipe the smudge away. Just like the brush, keep the cloth clean, if you reuse them, they can build up residue, which will end up back on the sensor glass. For very stubborn smudges, you might want to wrap the micro fiber cloth or a piece of lens tissue around a pencil eraser or long swab for better control. If that doesn't work, a drop or spray of lens cleaning solution on the cloth will do the trick.. make sure it isn't too wet before wiping it on the sensor glass. Lens tissue folded into a point with a drop of lens solution can help very concentrated spots as well.

TECH TIPS

• · Use a tiny flashlight to look at the sensor, it's easier to spot the dust.
• · Always have a clean micro fiber cloth handy for more serious dirt.
• · Cotton swabs aren't a good idea, unless they are wrapped in a micro fiber or lens tissue like material. They leave behind    more than they remove.
• · Never use your finger to get a speck of dust off, it's going to make things much worse.
• · Never blow on the sensor itself (as tempting as it is).
• · Always keep the Phantom Body cap on the camera when there is no lens attached.

Lenses gather a lot of dust as well, which can also wreak havoc on your images. Always keep the rear and front elements protected with their lens caps. There are many products out there safe for cleaning lenses, Here at Vision Research, we find that a micro fiber cloth with one spray of Eclipse or Pan-cro solution (on the cloth) works at the fastest with the best results.

A Senor and Lens Care Kit can be purchaesd in our online store

Each slo-mo Phantom camera comes with a fixed amount of very high-speed dynamic RAM. When the camera is in the pre-trigger mode (you've pressed "Capture" in the user interface), the camera is continuously recording images into that memory. When it gets to the end of memory, it cycles back to the beginning and continues recording. This behavior is called "circular buffer recording".

The slow motion camera is always "live". What you end up actually saving in memory is a function of how you've set up your trigger. You can set it up such that only frames that occur after the trigger are saved, so any images already in memory are overwritten and you record an event after the trigger (until memory is full). If you set the trigger to stop the recording and save all frames up to the time of the trigger, the camera will simply stop recording upon the trigger and all the frames in memory before the trigger will be saved. Finally, you can set the trigger anywhere in the middle, for example having 90% of the recorded movie be what happens prior to the trigger and 10% after the trigger.

Yes you can!  Surf you way over to the Document Downloads page of our Support section. Scroll down the page until you  find the Discontinued/Obsolete Products section. The datasheets are in model numbered order.

Our new Remote Control Unit has Bluetooth(r) wireless remote capabilities. Depending upon your camera model, you will need to outfit it with a Break-out-Box that has Bluetooth capability, or use a Bluetooth "dongle" directly on the remote port of the camera. Then, a Bluetooth-enable RCU can be used to remotely control the camera.